Adrienne Mendez for TATA HARPER SKINCARE
Skin Prep: Start by cleansing the skin with Tata Harper Purifying Cleanser for a fresh start “The second step would be the Hydrating Floral Essence and this will give the skin a nice hydrating boost, oil free. Also, plumping for the skin, and now we’re working on applying the rejuvenating serum, which will sculpt the cheekbones, the jaw line, it’s nice and lifting. Makes them look really refreshed.”
“Now, the Repairative Moisturizer to get the nice and glowing for the show. Lots of hyaluronic to plump the skin. Follow with the Tata Harper Restorative Eye Crème , which is also lifting, anti-puffiness. Great for dark circles. The last step we’re actually giving them the Aromatic Stress Treatment , so help them be nice and calm and relaxed for the show. The other side. You just inhale, 5 deep breaths in and out. Very calming.”
Daily treatment: “Every day. I keep it in my purse, actually, in my makeup bag. I pull it out whenever I’m stressed. It’s great for anti-anxiety, calming.”
Makeup Inspiration: Diane Kendal for MAC Cosmetics
“She said the inspiration was Carlo Mollino who had a real appreciation for the female form. This is sort of a nod to an architectural liner, very sort of 50s but something that’s a little bit thrown on the side.”
Look: “If you take a look at it has a really interesting trapezoidal shape to it, which is not your conventional liner. Some of the girls get this really interesting punch of aqua in there while some of the other girls have a little bit of black liner below without the aqua. It’s all really dependent on individuality and making sure that the girls all look a little bit different, but of course then still have the same thread line.”
“One the cheeks there’s a little bit of flush with the cream base. Her brows are sort of filled in a little bit. We’re using an aqua eye shadow, which is exciting for all of us makeup artists because we love a little bit of color. On some of the darker girls, absolutely we’ll pop that aqua in there. It really does have that 50s feel to it when those colors really came into existence. Then we’re using the black track gel liner on everyone for the outer liner, as well as the liner below. Tons of Haute & Naughty Mascara on the top lashes only. A little bit filled in brow and the skin should look, obviously, pretty luminous. Little bit glowy but sort of a little bit matte in other areas just to kind of off balance it there, and that’s it.”
Nail Inspiration: Geraldine Holder for LONDONTOWN
“What the whole collection was about was sort of like the girl was a little bit twisted, she was a little bit naughty. The Maiyet girl was very classic but this season is a little bit twisted. What we did was we picked these really classic colors. A beautiful vamp, a beautiful dark green and a really, really pretty pink and we dirtied it up. We created these custom colors by adding a really dark charcoal grey, the one from the last show, into the green.”
Look: “I added a tiny, tiny bit of black into the pink and then for the veil we added a little drop of green and, what else did we do? Brown, and muddied it up with brown. You get these really classic colors but they’re just a little dirty, a little bit twisted. Each color was specifically chosen for the girl to match her personality, match her outfit, match her skin tone, so it’s also very custom which is in the Maiyet way. Everything is really, really luxurious. We did it custom and a little bit twisted.”
Hair Inspiration: Anthony Turner
“As you can see we’ve got a little kind of 50s, 60s vibe going on but it’s not as simple as that, she’s a bit more twisted. She’s kind of a bit more dangerous, a bit more twisted. Almost a little bit Hitchcockian, you know, there’s something a bit sinister about her. The color palate of the collection is very sick. There’s a kind of a little bit of darkness and an edge to it.”
Look: “What I’m doing is basically the main structure of the shape is the same but there’s 3 different looks. The girls that have got mid-length hair to about shoulder-length, they’re all going to be left down. Girls with really long hair are going to be tied back in ponytails and the girls, basically the third one, is based on what the girls are wearing because there’s quite a few details in the back of the clothes that we need to see. For that I’m doing a very quick almost Tippi Hedren kind of twist at the back.
“Basically I’m using mousse, like a very basic mousse, L’Oreal mousse. It has to be really strong because I need a lot of guts in it to tease it. As you can see. What I do like, though, is that the back-combing isn’t perfect. She’s got to e a little bit undone, a little bit disheveled, a little big mad, if you want. Basically we are being quite theatrical and it feels good. It kind of feels good to kind of play with a narrative instead of just doing a ponytail. We’re really telling a story here and that feels really good. Plus, a very deep side part that swings around. That’s the thing that kind of binds them all together. That’s our common thread is this very low side part.
“Then teasing them up and then basically they’re going to be like that. A little bit over the ear because I always feel that in that time they were over the ear. Then basically either tying it like this or what I’m doing is I’m twisting it like that and it’s going to be up.”
“In the line up what I’m going to do is I’m going to pull more bits out so it feels more destroyed and the hair’s going to move. I’m finishing up with the L’Oreal Infinium, which is basically like helmet; but using quite a lot of hairspray. I wanted to give it this kind of really heavily lacquered finish.