BACKSTAGE @ ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO: FW2016

Hair Inspiration: James Pecis for PHYTO and HOT TOOLS

“The hair is quite simple but the concept behind it is quite beautiful. With all the negative things that are happening – in nature, fast-fashion, excessiveness, these kind of heavy negative things on topic lately – one of the things Maria wanted to do was bring it back to the importance of nature.”

Look: “She’s supposed to be coming in from the cold and she takes off her scarf and she has one of those weird little dreadlocks back here – scarf hair.”

How-to: “The hair, it’s very like kind of natural texture, rough center parting. We’re prepping the hair with Phytovolume Actif. Kind of rough drying it in, instead of wrapping it around theHot Tools 1 ½” Curling Iron, we’re giving it an S-shape wave, which is a softer way of giving a nice wave to the hair. Then using a little bit of the matte paste to rough it up a little bit and help it clump together a little bit. Around the ears we’re using hair spray just to keep the hair flat to the head and then this hair is pulled flat, we use a bobby pin on each side to secure it and it’s obvious we’re not trying to hide anything, we’re just like girls throwing in a bobby pin. Easy, easy look, it works with the whole shebang.”

Nail Inspiration: Danielle Candido, MORGAN TAYLOR Lacquer Lead Artist

“For Zero+Maria Cornejo, her show, the Morgan Taylor team has created a graphic, digging in the dirt kind of look. She wanted them to be coming in from outside and frosty face and digging in the dirt nails. Kind of an escape from the realities of the harsh winter.”
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How-to: “We have taken a layer of Birthday Suit as our base coat. These are our step by steps here, a layer of Morgan Taylor’s In The Nude to soften it up and really bring it up to a flesh appearance on the nail plate. Let the colors dry and then we hit it with a Little Black Dress and, honestly, a kitchen sponge.

Sponging Technique: “What we did was we took the sponge and pulled little pieces off of it so we don’t have any straight edges. We really want it to be kind of an organic feel how the patterns have happened. Very lightly hit the surface of the sponge and then wad it off, and then just one hit on the nail. We don’t want to overwork the nail because then it becomes too much, too dense.”

Nail shape: “This look is actually going on the natural nail. It’s a soft squoval, you’re going to see that repeated over and over and over again I think this season. Natural nail length, squoval edge, soft corner. I personally think on a longer nail this is even more impressive, but the look that we’re doing for this show is on the natural nail, a little bit shorter length.”

Makeup Inspiration: Dick Page, Shiseido Artistic Director

“It’s very, very simple. It’s flushed, fresh, healthy, in from the cold.”

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How-to: “Doing it with the lipstick and with lip color on first. The first thing that goes on the face is across the apple of the cheek, hit on the nose, down to the jaw. Like the way you can flush … You know kind of shock the cold, then you go back in the house and have that kind of bright pink. Little bit of red in the middle of the lower lip. Little bit of grease in the eye with a tiny bit of white pearl, just to catch the light. Same with a little around the lip with the white pearl. It’s kind of that face you get, if you get a bit chilly.”